Thursday, April 23, 2009

Manuel Antonio - Quepos

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We stopped in Jaco for lunch, and at Hermosa and Esterillos to check waves. Nothing happening, we hauled down to Manuel Antonio. This area is probably the prettiest jungle/beach region of the trip. Many shades of green meet white sand and clear blue water.
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We surfed at the north end of the beach, which is near a point, and called a point break, but looked and felt more like a regular shorebreak to us. Direction is everything I guess. The waves were fun, but fast and a bit tricky due to lots of rip and constantly shifting. We camped steps from the sand in a small meadow surrounded by noisy monkeys (who drive Camper nuts), and sing songy birds. We cooked all of our meals because the prices everywhere are outrageous. Somehow, we have found room in the budget for beers at night.

who would like to read a story?
THE RISE AND FALL OF TARP CITY
Let me start by saying one thing. It is damned hot, wet and muggy here. There is no dry place, and the humidity makes camping very challenging. Clothes remain sweaty, and tents become steam saunas.
The first night we had a short period of light rain accompanied by sporadic thunder and lightening. The flys went up on the tents, and both Beckers roasted inside like potatoes in the oven.
My sleeping pad had a perfect chalk-stlye outline of sweat, like you might see at a crime scene. Uncomfortable?... yes. Disgusting?.... yes also. Add two direct hits from falling mangos, near suffocation, a late night fly removal, then subsequent brief rainshower. Not much sleep that night.
As it happens, Garen meanwhile suffered many of the same issues so we decided to erect TARP CITY. The idea was to create a large waterproof tarp structure that both tents would fit under. This way, we could remove the flys and experience what is called ventilation, without worry of getting soaked. Quite impressive, really.
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We built another tarp house behind the truck for drinking under.
All went smoothly until the evening of the second night when the Perfect Storm came through. As luck would have it, we were at a bar ten minutes away when loud booming occurred and white flashes leaped across the sky. The rain was heavy enough to render us totally waterlogged within 30 seconds of leaving the cantina. Garen, Camper and I raced down a muddy road back to TARP CITY, falling into knee deep mud holes, and sloshing around in the dark.
We finally staggered into camp,where rivers ran under our tents and collected in pools everywhere. We dug moats and built trenches in an effort to save the camp from being washed away completely. Hours later the torrential rains ceased, but the damage had been done. TARP CITY was a failure.
A

Paquera to Puntarenas on a ferry

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Leaving the Nicoya Peninsula was tough, but there was virtually no swell, so now was as good a time as any. The ferry was cheap and stress free, unless you cannot handle an extremely gassy challenged man spitting in the ticket lobby. We could.
The big white tank continued to make other cars feel shabby and inadequate, and happily rumbled to the front of the line.
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There were some nice folks from NC state on the raft, who we saw again later at Jaco beach. And a goofy lookin bastard in a blue shirt in the boarding line
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Also, a castaway made the voyage until discovered by a deckhand and forced below for the remainder
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The ride lasted only an hour. We offloaded and headed down the coast
A

Montezuma

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Well, as it turns out, the final few days of the dry season are the worst time to visit waterfalls. We went anyway and camped on night in this small town of stoners.
The falls were still pretty albeit a bit on the dry side compared to usual.
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The hike was rugged, but short and zip lines were stretched across the forest.
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There were no waves in our immediate vicinity, so we just swam around, read a little, and worked through a few bars at night.
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We camped on the beach again, as we have done so many times on this trip.
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At about 1am, this one proved to be a bit different, for this is when a group of 15ot stoned ruffian hippy types began their synchronized chants around a campfire. After a long day of conjoining cheap plastic beads and braiding each others hair, it must have felt right because they were very enthusiastic.
One day here was plenty, so we fired up the sub and headed to Paquera.
A

Mal Pais - Santa Theresa - Playa Carmen

As we expected, the Burban did not acknowledge the infamously difficult road from Carillo to Mal Pais as any sort of challenge. We were ready for the worst, and never even shifted into 4. However easy, the drive was incredibly beautiful and we even scored another sand section.
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We passed a few tiny fishing villages surrounded in tropical green, some irritated bovines,
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and several severely wrecked river partiers
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The big diesel roared into Santa Theresa pretty late, so we raced between potential campsites only to settle on the lousiest one at Mal Pais Surf Camp. Uber pricey, shitty attitudes, and a steep grade for tent spots. To cap it off, I got beat in a best of five by Garen at ping pong. never again.
We had weird dreams that night, possibly because we slept next to this huge thing
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The next morning, we were packed up early enough to find a supremely better spot, and surf before the wind picked up. We caught the last two days of a 4 day 5ft swell period here, and the shapes were incredible.
Camping beside us were our friends from El Salvador, Trevor and Christina, from Idaho by way of Lake Tahoe. Fun, friendly people.
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Our new campsite was kick ass. Half the price, steps from the water, free power, and run by a nice family.
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We were a good twenty minutes walk from the nearest working break, but snorkeling and swimming were very accessible.
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Camper is pretty warm in this climate, and did a lot of sleeping. And some pretending.
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The swell dropped considerably after our first two days, so we hit the road again
A

Friday, April 17, 2009

Playa Guiones

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After escaping Semana Santa craziness at Avellanas, we headed south to Playa Guiones where there is said to be Costa Rica's best beach break. We drove around a a bit and found a great campspot and parked the truck for what turned out to be about a week; we have showers and clean bathrooms and even power to run all of our geeky electronics!
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Guiones is near Nosara and seems to be a popular spot for well heeled families from the states to come and stay; as most of the restaurants around are rather expensive and some have No Dogs signs posted; just like the states! In those spots Camp has to sit on the sidelines; watching and waiting...
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We generally wake up and have breakfast, go out for a surf, come back and eat pancakes and a few sandwiches, then head over to this air conditioned coffee shop to play with the interweb. Camp is allowed in here and basks in the cool air on a cold tile floor...
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Then we go back to the truck and sweat like fatties until it's time to go out for a long afternoon-evening surf. The sweat has been pouring off of us; and a thermometer placed in Alex's tent read over 120 one day. Every morning I have been forced out of my tent by a searing, intense heat. Even worse, my tent has become a toilet for a whole herd of monkeys, who then head over to the trees above Alex's tent to have raging parties all night. Then by midday the ground is so hot that we have to run down this path to the beach so as not to burn the soles of our feet.
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The waves were kick ass when we showed up and have been getting smaller and smaller as time passes, but it's been good almost all the time. The paddle out is normally a huge drag. There are waves and waves and waves; one bigger day I counted 45 duck dives before I was in the lineup; completely shelled and unable to paddle for a piece.
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The good thing about this heinous paddle out is that it keeps a number of people stuck on the inside, unable to get out to the good waves. This doesn't mean it wasn't crowded at times; but there wasn't a load of beginners on longboards out there which was nice. The waves averaged around 6 feet with 8-10 foot sets when it was at it's best. We're told we came at a great time and that it's not usually as big out there; and though we (everyone) got thoroughly abused by big sets just out of reach, we had an awesome time surfing here. IMG_2465
Our friends from Chicago were staying at a hostel near here, so by night we sampled the different bars and restaurants and met people form Virginia, South carolina, New York, OAKTOWN CA, and Idaho.
IMG_2443 Every night there was some sort of live music or open mic kind of deal, and there was a surprising amount of people out every night. We never stayed out too late to get up and surf early, but a good time was had by all...
Enjoying lazy days down here...
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Onward...
GB